Photo. STIJL - Sonja Noel - Stijl Men costume Giuliano Fujiwara 1987.

For the past four decades, Belgian fashion has been a beacon of creativity and expertise, captivating the global stage with its innovative designs and exceptional craftsmanship. At the heart of this vibrant scene is Brussels, a city that has blossomed into a true fashion hub. Central to this evolution is the iconic brand STIJL, which has been championing Belgian designers and their visionary work since its inception, 40 years ago.
We met Sonja Noel for an interview and ask her about fashion, passion and dedication.

CL > Sonja, could you share with us the initial inspiration behind STIJL Brussels and how your vision for promoting Belgian fashion designers has evolved since you first opened your stores?

SN > “Back in the early 80s, I was young, inexperienced but brimming with ambition when I opened Stijl boutique at 26 Dansaert Street. My goal was to offer a style that was both understated and bold. I curated collections from visionary young designers who were yet to hit the Belgian market—this was avant-garde fashion. I sourced these collections from France and Switzerland.
This was before Belgian fashion designers became a talking point. I first met the Antwerp Six at the Gouden Spoelweg competition. Marina Yee was the only one with a collection ready for retail, which I promptly snapped up for my shop.
The others followed later—Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Dirk Bikkembergs. They already had a bold style, and it's fair to say we grew together: they on the international scene, and Stijl as a fashion hub in Brussels.
Those were the days when the government was boosting Belgian fashion with the "Mode dit is Belgisch" textile plan. About a decade later, a second wave of talented designers emerged, including Raf Simons, Véronique Branquinho, A.F. Vandevorst, Sofie d'Hoore, and others.”
I've always kept an eye on international trends too, making my buys in Milan, Paris, and sometimes London".

CL > Looking back from 2000 to now, how have you seen the styles and collections of Belgian designers change? What do you think has driven these changes?

SN > “Meanwhile, we had a women's boutique, a men's boutique, and a lingerie boutique. Later on, we added a children's boutique, and Maison Margiela joined the fold...
From the 2000s onwards, new designers emerged with interesting collections and unique visions. Existing designers like Dries Van Noten continued to reinvent themselves.
Today, the differences between collections are less pronounced as most customers seek more wearable clothing: think unisex, sportswear, season-to-season carryovers.
Stijl's collections are now accessible to everyone.”

CL > What do you see as the future direction for Belgian fashion, particularly in the context of increasing global challenges like sustainability and ethical production? What advice would you give to new designers emerging in Belgium today?

SN > Belgian collections are relatively small, yet they maintain a close watch on their production processes, which explains their high prices. Most of their production takes place in Europe. It has become incredibly challenging to create a sustainable collection (one that can survive) under one's own name or label.
This is because there are so many collections out there and the competition is global.
My advice? Stay small and local... or go work for another major house.

More about STIJL:
STIJL Women - Antoine Dansaert, 74 - 1000 Brussels 
STIJL Men - Pl. Marché aux Grains, 6 - 1000 Brussels

www.stijl.be