Costa Rica: a land that chose its own path.

Costa Rica — the tropical idyll and one of the world’s few countries to have abolished its army in 1948 — has consciously invested in conservation, education, and sustainable development. Over the last few decades, it has transformed from a frontier agrarian economy to a leading reference in ecotourism, biodiversity preservation, and “pura vida” living.

Gradually, the country regained forest cover, established an extensive system of national parks and reserves, and created incentives that reward landowners for conserving ecosystems. Today, forests blanket more than half the territory and Costa Rica attracts nature lovers, scientists, and luxury travelers alike.

The country’s success lies in balancing nature and human development: rich biodiversity paired with boutique infrastructure, meaningful local experiences, and a genuine commitment to preserving what makes this land so unique.

San José — A gentle introduction.

Landing in San José feels like a soft awakening — the bustle of a capital, the pulse of daily rhythms, yet enough calm to recover from jet lag. I stayed two nights (one almost entirely for sleep after the long journey).

What to know & fun facts.

San José lies in the Central Valley at about 1 100 – 1 200 m elevation, giving it a milder climate than one might expect in the tropics. It is the heart of contemporary Costa Rican life — business, culture, and crossroads of travel — and a gateway to the country’s past: museums, architecture, and markets tell stories of Costa Rica’s evolution.

• Museo del Oro Precolombino (Gold Museum): a beautifully curated collection of indigenous goldwork.
• Teatro Nacional: elegant Neoclassical theater in the heart of downtown.
• Mercado Central: a lively maze of local food, souvenirs, coffee — perfect for soaking in local color.
• Barrio Amón & Barrio Otoya: neighborhoods with preserved colonial-era houses, cafés, and art galleries.
  
  

Although San José was not what I came for, those two days helped me acclimatize, rest, and sense the country’s pulse before launching into the wild.

Into the Wild — Monteverde.

From the valley you ascend toward the misty heights of Monteverde, the region famed for its cloud forests — perhaps where Costa Rica’s identity as an ecotourism pioneer was truly born.

A bit of history & context.

Monteverde’s modern story is tied to a Quaker community that migrated from Alabama in the 1950s to avoid the U.S. draft and settle in peace. Drawn by Costa Rica’s 1948 decision to abolish its military, they embraced living simply with the land. Over time, the community’s commitment to conservation turned Monteverde into a global center for cloud-forest research and sustainable tourism.

Staying with heart — Ocotea Boutique Hotel.

We stayed two nights at Ocotea Boutique Hotel, the inspired vision of mother-daughter entrepreneurs Karen and Valeria Fallas. Born and raised in Monteverde, they built Ocotea as a refined, sustainable haven where architecture blends with landscape, gastronomy is locally sourced, and every detail whispers respect for nature.

Their ethos: “Commune with the forest … discover wildlife … leave it as you found it.”

During our stay we experienced three unforgettable tours — from the Santa Elena Reserve’s cloud-shrouded bridges to coffee-cacao farms and local nature walks guided by experts attuned to orchids, frogs, and forest dynamics.


Monteverde rewarded us with quetzals, bromeliads, and views that drift in and out of the mist.

Northward to Volcano Tenorio & Miravalles.

Heading north, we spent a night near Tenorio Volcano National Park. While Arenal is more famous, Tenorio offered a quieter, equally spectacular alternative. The highlight — Río Celeste — its milky-blue waters born from volcanic minerals, feel almost magical.

Nearby Miravalles Mountain View revealed dart frogs, red-eyed tree frogs, and even sloths hidden in foliage.

Beach time & luxury in Guanacaste — Playa Conchal & Mikado Natural Lodge.

From the forest we descended to the Pacific, into Guanacaste — Costa Rica’s realm of sun, surf, and style. Playa Conchal stole my heart — a shell beach where crushed shells shimmer under turquoise waters. Pure bliss.

We stayed at Mikado Natural Lodge, nestled on 7.5 ha of tropical jungle. Six independent bungalows, infinity pool, private trails, jacuzzi, and panoramic terraces — each space curated with fine comfort yet fully immersed in nature.

Privacy, tranquility, luxury — the perfect base to dream and unwind.

Along the coast — Manuel Antonio Reserve & Gaia Hotel.

Continuing south, we reached Manuel Antonio, where rainforest meets white-sand beaches. Gaia Hotel & Nature Reserve offered an elegant sanctuary above the coast, its restaurant overlooking canopy and sea.

Each morning, birdsong and rustling leaves framed breakfast. Within the Manuel Antonio National Park (book ahead) and its adjacent beach, wildlife abounds — sloths, monkeys, tropical birds — appearing along forest trails and at the water’s edge.

The Grand finale — Osa Peninsula & Corcovado Wilderness Lodge.

For the crescendo, we ventured into the remote Osa Peninsula, where pure wilderness reigns. Corcovado Wilderness Lodge (by SCP) sits above a palm-fringed beach, surrounded on three sides by the vast Corcovado National Park.


Accessible only by boat from Sierpe, the journey itself is an adventure through mangroves and coastal waters.
The lodge spans 189 acres of rainforest with minimal environmental footprint — luxurious yet ecological, powered by solar and micro-hydro systems.


Guided hikes, mangrove tours, snorkeling, whale and dolphin watching — every experience renews your sense of wonder. It is the kind of place that humbles you, drains away small anxieties, and restores perspective.

Practical notes & Recommendations

• Car rental: Sunny Cars — flexible, reliable, comfortable for long itineraries.
• Flights: Air France — smooth connections and excellent service between Europe and Costa Rica.
• Best season: May — wildlife active, bright days, perfect balance between dry and wet seasons.
• Travel tip: Driving lets you feel Costa Rica’s rhythm — small villages, changing landscapes, freedom to stop and explore.

Pura vida — a way of living that you take home with you.